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Asia Cambodia

Kompung Khleang, Angkor Province, Cambodia

A Travel Bloggers Guide to Off the Beaten Track in Angkor, Cambodia.

This blog post focuses on my return visit to the community of Kompung Khleang, Angkor province, Cambodia. This is a village largely centered on and living off the Tonle Sap Lake and river that feeds into it. It is not a pretty, or sanitised tourist place, but rather, offers a glimpse into the reality of life for most of Cambodia’s population i.e. poor. This was my second visit and I am once again struck by the warmth and open generosity of the people who live and work along its shores. It is also a place that few who marvel at the many sights or Angkor and Angkor Wat will see, as it lies off the beaten track and has not suffered a tourist makeover. But for those who have a genuine interest in how the majority of Cambodians live and survive in this part of the country it is a good starting point. From a personal perspective I cannot imagine visiting any country, and particularly one steeped in such a profoundly  creative and important history, and not be interested in the inhabitants, who are after all the ancestors of it creator’s. Behind the laughter smiles and warm welcome lies the cruel truth of a life expectancy of 40 to 45 years due to Dengue fever and Malarial mosquitos. Still the children will rush forth at the mere sight of a stranger using it as an opportunity to share their few words of English “Hello mister, where you from?” They are quick to smile and delighted when asked to gather for a picture. It is also a place full of strong colour form the vibrant blues of the clear sky mirrored in the shades of blue in the house and building and set dramatically by the rusty burnt orange colours of the mud roads. The road eventually terminates in the village square beside a monastery school and boat jetty where we take our river and lake trip out to the vast expanse that is Tonle Sap Lake and the floating villagers who call it home. I cannot imaging visiting Siem Reap or Angkor again in the future and not paying yet another visit to this fascinating place.


Stilt House on Tonle Sap River

All houses are built high on stilts as the water level raise dramatically in the rainy season.

Girl on bridge with takeaway lunch.

Man descales fish kept company by a cat that bizarrely seems disinterested

Kids at play

Village kids pose and smile for a group photo

The Smoked Fish Trader

A blanket of fish drying in the sun

The Crossraods

Alms collection for the local Wat

A tarpaulin re-imagined as a sun shade. The sun here gets scorching hot

Shrimp drying in the sun

The vegetable seller

Boy securing a bag of rice to carrier on his bike

Sleepy corner shop

Dramatic view of the main stilt village on the banks of the Tonle Sap river

The banks of the river are a hive of industry and trade

The river and the stilts supporting the buildings may be dull but the houses never are and are a riot of blues, reds, greens and browns, all contrasting beautifully with the deep blue skies and fluffy flaoting clouds

Fisherman takes a break in his small wooden dugout boat and fishing net

The journey home from market.

Dramatic skies and clouds along the banks of the river

The great Tonle Sap Lake shimmers in high sun

Life on the Lake

Typical floating house Tonle Sap Lake

Young girl shelters from the sun looks wistfully out to the lake beyond

Mother and children relaxing in hammock

Funeral procession on the river

A Buddhist Temple on the road to Kompung Kleang


Getting there

Trips from Siem Reap are easily arranged and you can make the trip by Tuk Tuk although it is a bit far for this method of transport of alternatively you can travel by car with a guide.

We included our trip here as part of the 3 day package with our Angkor Tour Guide.

Next stop: Phnom Penh

#TravelWise #TravelWell #TravelThere

Asia Cambodia

A Travelbloggers Guide to Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Travelbloggers guide  and top tips for Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia


This was to be my second visit to Siem Reap and the temples and ruins of Angkor. Spread out over an area of some 600 acres amidst the tropical humidity of Cambodia it is at once beguiling and mysterious in its state of semi ruin, a state accentuated by the creeping gripping roots of giant fig trees that have embedded themselves into the stonework and structure of so many of these part ruins. Indeed it is this very otherworldly quality that led Hollywood to use it as the location for large parts of the film Tomb Raider.

To sum up my experience of the return to Angkor In a word magical!!


Angkor Wat itself is surrounded by a 650-foot wide moat encompassing a perimeter of more than 3 miles, it is approximately 13 feet deep. This water way adds further to the enchantment of the area as a whole. The trees and roots that add so much drama and structural damage to the remaining temples are those of the Ficus strangulosa tree, a member of the fig family of trees. Although they caused a lot damage to the structure of a  lot of the temples, in some they have become so embedded as to become part of the supporting structure. In  many it is hard to see how they could be removed at this point, without causing further major damage to the remaining element. They also add to the drama and mystery of the area, having become synonymous with the temples and aesthetic of this region throughout the world.

Angkor was originally conceived in the 12th century by the Khmer Empire as a Hindu Temple in honour of Vishnu. Built by the Khmer King Suryavarman II as his state temple, it would eventually, in death, become his mausoleum. In the 14th century it was converted to a Buddhist temple when adornments of the Buddha were added to the temples. Angkor was also once the capital city of Cambodia, before its eventual relocation to the capital we know today Phnom Penh.

Fossil Spotted this on the lintel of the entrance-way to one of the temples.

Top Travel Tip Many of the itineraries on offer proposed a sunrise visit to the Angkor Wat site on the first morning of visit, this is a mistake as first you have to go and purchase temple passes at what will be one of the busiest times, meaning you end up arriving later when all the best viewing spots have gone. Far better to start a little later on your first morning, assuming a 3 day tour, using this first morning to buy your 3 day pass then set off to visit the various temples in reverse order to the majority of the crowds, whilst still availing of the best light conditions, (frankly any less than 3 days to my mind is not worth travelling half way across the globe for!)


We started on day one at 9 am heading to the ticket office which was virtually empty. We did not make our first visit to Angkor Wat until mid-afternoon on day one, when the sun was lower in the sky and the light softer. We visited again for sunrise the following morning, setting off at 5 am and because we already had our passes driving directly to the entrance way to Angkor Wat. Our guide then brought us to a perfectly located spot on a ledge of one of the outer temples in the grounds of Angkor Wat. As we were the first ones there we got prime position from which to view the spectacular sunrise over Angkor Wat. In fact, before sun up every ledge and step of this temple filled and overflowed, but none had a better spot than the one we occupied.

Faces of The East Gate Angkor Thom

South Gate and main entrance to Angkor Thom

Portrait of a Monk taking shelter from the scorching sun Angkor Wat

The red rings on his arms and back are the result of a traditional Chinese treatment for fever or pain. The technique is called cupping and involves  glass cups heated on the inside with fire to create a vacuum and then placed on the afflicted area of the body. The cup’s suction pulls at the skin and is said to “suck out” the body’s toxins.

View from the highest point Angkor Wat

Monk in the high reaches of Angkor Wat takes in the view from an arched opening.The temples of Angkor Wat are still in use today as a place of worship.

Bas Reliefs

Novice monks take school lessons.

Many poorer families in Cambodia will send at least one of their children to spend time as a novice monk in monasteries around the country as a means of both supporting the child and providing him with a free education.

Colonnade Angkor Wat

Top view of South Gate of Angkor Thom

Ficus Strangulosa consumes the walls and archway

Banteay Kdei

During our first meeting with our guide, the evening before our 3 day tour was to start, I had suggested to him that we did not want air conditioning in the car, but would rather just have the windows open. Ever the diplomat Sophanna said, ok let’s see how we go. Day one and a couple of hours in I had completely changed my mind and was so glad of the relief offered by the air conditioned 4×4 and the ice cold eucalyptus soaked and refreshing face towels on offer.

As another requirement of our itinerary we also wanted to visit local villages and markets, but again this requires careful planning as many have become little more than sanitised tourist traps selling a false image of what life is really like for the majority of Cambodians in this region. Having visited the Kompong Khleang community last time I was here I was keen to revisit to see how, and if, things had changed. Being that bit further away from Siem Reap it is also a lot less crowded with tourists, we probably saw about 4 others visitors whilst we were there. From here it is also possible to take a boat trip out onto Tonle Sap Lake and visit a floating village. The inhabitants of this floating village, originally from Vietnam, mainly live off the fish trade. It offers a fascinating glimpse into a traditional and nomadic way of life that has been in existence for many many years. It is also a great way to get a taste for life along the river and offers a unique glimpse into both the construction and day to day comings and goings of the stilt village. My picture post of this visit will be under a separate blog post in order to do it justice.



Getting There

We flew Air Asia first from Chaing Mai to Bangkok, then following a 2 hour stopover took a direct flight from Bangkok to Siem Reap With both flights taking little more than an hour it saved having to stay in Bangkok.

Click this link for info

Top Travel Tip It is now very easy and cost effective to arrange an e-visa through the Cambodian embassy in London for anyone living in the UK. I used the service for this trip and found it to be very fast and efficient.

Click this link for info

Staying There

We booked well in advance and got a great deal on a one bedroom apartment at Hotel Chateau d’Angkor. This is a great hotel based in the heart of Siem Reap itself and a short walk from all the main pubs, restaurants and sights that Siem Reap has to offer. Shop around the various hotel comparison sites for the best deals.

Click this link for info


Angkor Tour Guide

As mentioned in the blog after many months of research we finally settled on Sophanna Muon who runs Angkor Tour Guide for our 3 day itinerary. I am now sharing the results of my research and giving you the details to one of the finest guides in Angkor and Cambodia, lucky you who find this!

Click here for info


I am not going to publish a copy of our  itinerary as I believe that part of the adventure and excitement of any visit lies in the construction and planning of an itinerary, but am happy top offer advice and help in the construction of an itinerary for any that might require it, just email me, or post a comment with your contact details, and I will get back to you.

#TravelWell #TravelWise #TravelThere

Asia Thailand

A Travel Bloggers Guide to Chiang Mai Thailand, Top Travel Tips

Chiang Mai, Thailand

A travel bloggers insight guide and recommendations.

There are 6 main reasons that tourists to travel north of Bangkok to the much more relaxed and chilled out city of  Chiang Mai. One: To see the exquisite Buddhist temples, Two:  Because it is a much more relaxed and safer place than Bangkok, Three: As the gateway to jungle trekking into the surrounding mountains, Four: Probably most popular of all, to visit and experience a close up encounter with elephants. Five: For Thai massage and Six: Last but not least, the food!!

I had first visited Chiang Mai in 2014 as the meeting point with a tour guide for a 3 day trek up into the rain-forests of Northern Thailand, a trip that had turned out to be one of the best experiences of my travel adventures. For the few days spent in Chiang Mai on either side of the trekking adventure I had grown to like the laid back and friendly atmosphere of Chiang Mai itself. Based on this the aim of my return was simply to relax and enjoy that laid back atmosphere. Having gone trekking in the past I also wanted to have a close up encounter with elephants, but at a place that have a No ride policy. It is an unfortunate truth that many tourists visiting this part of Thailand do so with the aim of taking part in an Elephant encounter which has led to the rise of many unscrupulous and unethical Elephant farms. I use the term Elephant farm deliberately as they are little more than exploitative and cruel places run by people with little care for elephants, other than how to exploit them.

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Asia Malaysia

Pulau Langkawi, Malaysia.

The Archipelago of Langkawi Malaysia

The Island of Pulau Langkawi is a tropical paradise located some 30 kilometers off the northwest coast of Malaysia. Considered the jewel in the crown of the state of Kedah it is in fact an archipelago of some 104 island in the Andaman Sea, with Pulau Langkawi being the largest inhabited in the Archipelago. Many refer to it as the Hawaii of South East Asia, but to me that title does not do it justice and having visited both I prefer Langkawi for the diversity of it landscape, wildlife and rain-forest. Mainstream tourism tends to concentrate around Pantai Cenang beach area and although this is a good base when visiting the island, being close to all the best eating and drinking establishments, there is so much more to explore and see not far beyond and all within short driving distances. I would recommend if you intend visiting Langkawi that you hire a car for at least some of your stay, if not all, as this will allow you to explore the Island more fully and freely. Driving in Langkawi is also a much easier and safer experience than what you might experience on mainland Malaysia. Being a duty free island expect to find lots of cheap tobacco, booze and chocolates.

Langkawi Malaysia in pictures by DKTravelpix (16)Offering a range of accommodation types from the cheapest budget places Langkawi also plays host to some top class and secluded luxury resorts, with the most highly rated probably being the Datai and closely followed by the Danna and the Four Seasons Langkawi. Links to all can be found at the end of this post.

A couple of places not to be missed I would suggest are the Langkawi Wildlife Park, and my favourite Gunung Raya.

Telaga Harbour Marina is also well worth a visit with a nice stretch of usually fairly quiet white sand beach just beyond the harbour area, although it’s not great for swimming as the as the base sand is muddy and slimy, I presume from pollution. There is also free parking on the beach edge at this place.

Langkawi Malaysia in pictures by DKTravelpix (1)

Langkawi Malaysia in pictures by DKTravelpix (2)

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Asia Malaysia

Thaipusam festival Penang Malaysia 2016 (post 2 of 3)

Post 2 The 10 kilometer walk to the Temple 

Thaipusam is a Hindu festival celebrated mostly by the Tamil community on the full moon in the Tamil month of Thai (January/February). It is mainly observed in countries where there is a significant presence of Tamil community such as India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia. I was fortunate enough to be in Penang this year when the festival was taking place. The picture post that follows is divided into 3 parts, but all from one festival day. The festival itself lasted for 3 days over a weekend.

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (35)

Post 2

By now it is getting close to midday as we set off on the 10 kilometer walk to the base of the temple Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani Kovil. The sun beats down from overhead and the air hangs heavy amidst the humidity of the atmosphere and crowded streets. Everywhere is a riot of colour and sound as speakers pump out a rhythmic and hypnotic beat. Soon i find myself carried along by the sway of the music as we make slow walk to the temple. The pain and the endurance of the Kavadi Attam participants now clear to see, yet none that oi have seen falter. It must also be said that Thaipusam is not just about, or centered, on Kavadi Attam although given the visual spectacle of the bondage of hooks and hanging adornments this is a major draw for tourists and spectators. Thaipusam is very much a family based festival. Indeed on the plane from Singapore to Penang (which was mostly full of families heading to Penang for Thaipusam) I struck up a conversation with one man who was not in favour of the Kavadi as he felt he sent out the wrong message of this important Hindu festival and as such was a distraction. The pictures here tell the rest of the story far better than my words can describe. Suffice to say it has to be one of the most fascinating and exhilarating experiences of my life.

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (16)

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (17)

Each participant has a team of friends making sure they are ok whether it be quenching thirst or readjusting spears and pins. Each one of the cups seen in this picture is attached to the devotees body by means of a hook pierced through the skin. There are also a number of hooks lodged in his back each roped and held and pulled by the parson at back (see picture above) adding greatly to the strain and endurance of the participant.

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (18)

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (19)

Some do Kavadi Attam light preferring to support the frame to their bodies by means of a waist belt. However this is still a long and painful slog for all Kavadi Attam participants.

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (20)

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (21)

These pictures demonstrate the force used in pulling on the hooked ropes. This participant also has a very large spear pierced though his cheeks.

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Asia Malaysia

Thaipusam Festival, Penang, Malaysia 2016 (Post 1 of 3)

Post 1 The Preperation

Thaipusam is a Hindu festival celebrated mostly by the Tamil community on the full moon in the Tamil month of Thai (January/February). It is mainly observed in countries where there is a significant presence of Tamil community such as India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia. I was fortunate enough to be in Penang this year when the festival was taking place. The picture post that follows is divided into 3 parts, but all from one festival day. The festival itself lasted for 3 days over a weekend.

Post 1

Waiting at the bus stop for a bus to the festival starting point I strike up a conversation with a man from Singapore who travels with his temple community every year to celebrate the festival. He very kindly offers to take me to the preparation ceremony for their nominated Kavadi for the 2016 festival. He explained that of all the regions and communities that attend the festival the Singaporean group is the most committed to the true requirement of The Kavadi Attam (“Burden Dance”) as their devotee is speared to the flesh front and back, but also carries a metal temple on his head weighing some 25 kilos. He explained that most others preform Kavadi Atam light, using waist belts to hold the metal spines and polystyrene temples on top of their heads. I cannot overemphasise the difference and importance inherent in this given the 36 degree heat and high humidity. The nominee then has to carry the entire enterprise though this scorching heat and humidity from the starting point, a walk of some 10 kilometres, to the base of the temple Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani Kovil which itself then involves climbing some 513 steps to reach the temple.  In preparation for the devotee will fast for anything up to 48 days prior to the festival day although my Singaporean friend tells me they fast for 2 weeks. Detailed explanation of Kavadi Attam below.

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (6)

Kavadi Attam

The Kavadi Attam (“Burden Dance”, also written as cavadee) is the ceremonial sacrifice and offering performed by devotees during the worship of Murugan, the Hindu God of War.[6] It is often performed during the festival of Thaipusam and emphasises debt bondage. The Kavadi itself is a physical burden through which the devotees implore for help from the God Murugan.[7] Devotees prepare for the celebration by cleansing themselves through prayer and fasting approximately 48 days before Thaipusam. Kavadi-bearers have to perform elaborate ceremonies at the time of assuming the kavadi and at the time of offering it to Murugan. The kavadi-bearer observes celibacy and take only pure, Satvik food, once a day, while continuously thinking of God. On the day of the festival, devotees will shave their heads and undertake a pilgrimage along a set route while engaging in various acts of devotion, notably carrying various types of kavadi (burdens). At its simplest this may entail carrying a pot of milk, but mortification of the flesh by piercing the skin, tongue or cheeks with vel skewers is also common. The simplest kavadi is a semicircular decorated canopy supported by a wooden rod that is carried on the shoulders, to the temple. In addition, some have a small spear through their tongue, or a spear through the cheeks.

The description of Kavadi Attam above is sourced from Wikipedia


Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (1)

We took the ferry from Kedah on the mainland to Penang Island

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (2)

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (3)

Preparation and offerings for the Kavadi

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (4)

The devotee who preformed the Kavadi Attam in 2017 recives blessings prior top the start of the procession.

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (5)

Blessing a child


One of his assistants check the pins top make sure they are all securely anchored in place.

Thaipusam Festival Penang Malaysia 2016 By David Keegan Photography (7)

The entire body frame is held in place by metal pins anchored in his chest and back but he is also speared through his cheeks with further adornments hooked into the face.

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Asia Myanmar

Sagar on the banks of the Beluo Chaung, Inle Lake, Burma

Sagar on the banks of the Beluo Chaung River, Burma.

Sagar, originally part of the Shan state once ruled by the Sabwas people, ruthlessly eliminated by the Burmese military dictator Ne Win  who took power not long after the end of the second world war and is largely responsible for the destruction of Burma. The village itself is now little more than a crumbling, yet friendly, place reached by boat from Nyaung Shwe and taking around two and a half to 3 hours to reach. It is nonetheless a fascinating and worthwhile place to visit.

Sagar on the banks of the Beluo Chaung river, Burma (1)
 Sagar on the banks of the Beluo Chaung river, Burma (5)
Sagar on the banks of the Beluo Chaung river, Burma (2)
 A recently restored Stupa, restoration in Burma favours restoring to what the Stupa would have looked like when first constructed.
Sagar on the banks of the Beluo Chaung river, Burma (4)
Sagar on the banks of the Beluo Chaung river, Burma (7)
 Oxen are still very much a regular feature of the Burmese landscape, here pictured on the way home from a days work. These animals are very well looked after by the farmer.
Sagar on the banks of the Beluo Chaung river, Burma (9)
The local convenience store.

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Asia Myanmar

Indein, Inle Lake, Burma

Indein Stupas

Just a few pictures here. What struck, and a sight oft repeated throughout Burma, is the coexistence of world heritage sites and daily lives. These are not places of museum set in aspic but very much an integral part of the local lived in landscape.


Indein The Stupas Inle Lake Burma by David Keegan 2015 (1)

Indein The Stupas Inle Lake Burma by David Keegan 2015 (2)

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Asia Myanmar

The Fishermen of Inle Lake, Burma

Fishermen of Inle Lake (post 4 of 7)

Inle, or Intha, is the second largest lake in Myanmar It is listed in the UNESCO World Network of Biosphere Reserves, being added to the list in 2015.  The lake is also home to over twenty species of snails and nine species of fish that are unique to the lake, not being found anywhere else in the world.  Local fishermen are known for practicing a distinctive rowing style which involves standing at the stern on one leg and wrapping the other leg around the oar. This unique style evolved as the lake is being covered by reeds and floating plants made it difficult to see above them while sitting. Standing provides the rower with a view beyond the reeds.  It is also now one of the major tourist draws on the Lake.  A number of fishermen have taken to exploiting this by hanging around the entrance to the lake posing for dollars rather than actually fishing. This has given the fishermen and the lakes a bad name with some and is in danger of destroying the authenticity of the lakes in general. Travel further into the lakes and you can witness fishermen fishing in this traditional style for real and without the request for dollars. Yopu will also witness another popular techniques requring the fishermen to work in teams. This involves one hitting/slapping the water  the water and therby driving the fish into nets held by the others. Whatever the technique there is a grace and poise to these mens movements as they go about their fishing. All of my featured pictures in this blog post were taken without payment, and are of fishermen genuinely going about their business of fishing. The best time of the year to visit is during September and October


The Fishermen of Inle Lake, Burma by David Keegan 2015 (1)

The Fishermen of Inle Lake, Burma by David Keegan 2015 (2)

The Fishermen of Inle Lake, Burma by David Keegan 2015 (3)

The Fishermen of Inle Lake, Burma by David Keegan 2015 (4)

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Asia Myanmar

Nyaung Shwe, Inle Lake, Burma

Leaving Rangoon for Nyaung Shwe

Leaving Yangon on an overnight bus we begin the long and arduous journey to Inle Lake. We travel on the VIP express bus (JJ Express) which has a seat configuration of what is known as 2+1, basically means 3 seats to a line, so much bigger seats and a lot more comfortable than a standard bus. I bought tickets for this in advance from ticket agent in Rangoon and all went without hitch. They were very communicative and professional in their dealings. You can find them at this link   The bus station itself is a good hour’s taxi ride outside the center of Rangoon but can take a lot longer depending on time of day and traffic. If you need a driver in Rangoon then I can heartily recommend a chap called San a wonderful chap with a winning smile great local knowledge and very reliable. I only have his email address but I found him very responsive via email:

The bus station, a noisy, crowded, chaotic and hectic place in itself. As for the bus journey I would love to be able to say this is a great way to travel, and it might well be if it wasn’t for the bus operator’s insistence on having the air con turned to artic cold conditions. I seriously mean it’s so cold even the provided blanket will struggle to keep you warm, moral of the story if you intend to catch the bus bring warm clothes. But hey it’s a lot cheaper than the overpriced internal flights, and given the travel is overnight means you are not wasting a day on travel. Our destination for discovering Inle Lake will be Nyaung Shwe where we will stay for our 5 day stay in Inle. We stayed in Princess Garden Hotel which cannot be booked online,  but you can book directly via email.

To read more about this place check out the reviews on trip advisor

The only other downside of the bus is arriving in Nyaung Shwe at 5 am in the morning meaning a 6 hour wait before we could check in as all the chalets were fully booked


Nyaung Shwe, Inle Lake (post 3 of 7).

Pictures post 1 (3) Nyaung Shwe, Burma By David Keegan

Bustling main street

Pictures post 1 (1) Nyaung Shwe, Burma By David Keegan

If you are taking a boat trip on the lake (of course you are, otherwise why are you here) you will most likely board at one of these jetty’s but this is also a working lake as the picture shows so you will most likely share it with locals as they go about their daily business.


The Market

The market moves to a different location every week, being held in Nyaung Shwe once a month. If you are fortunate enough to be in town for market day its well worth a visit and is the perfect opportunity to mingle with the locals as they do their shopping.

Pictures post 1 (2) Nyaung Shwe, Burma By David Keegan

Pictures post 1 (5) Nyaung Shwe, Burma By David Keegan

The Tea Seller

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